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Roots Is The Toots-The Music That Got The Generation Of ’68 Through The 1950s
Red Scare Cold War Night –The Balducci’s Pizza Parlor Bet -Gene Vincent's Be-Bop-A-Lula
From The Pen Of Frank Jackman
You all know Frankie, right?
Frankie, Francis Xavier Riley, map of Ireland, fierce Frankie when necessary,
and usually kind Frankie by rough inclination. Yah, Frankie from the old North
Adamsville neighborhood. Frankie to the tenement, the cold-water flat tenement,
born. Frankie, no moola, no two coins to rub together except by wit or
chicanery, poor as a church mouse if there ever was such a thing, a poor church
mouse that is. Yes, that Frankie. And, as well, this writer, his faithful
scribe chronicling his tales, his regal tales. Said scribe to the public
housing flats, hot-water flats, but still flats, born. And poorer even than any
old Frankie church mouse. More importantly though, more importantly for this
story that I am about to tell you than our respective social class positions,
is that Frankie is king, the 1960s king hell king of Balducci’s Pizza Parlor “up
the Downs,” if not then North Quincy’s finest pizza parlor still the place
where we spent many a misbegotten hour, and truth to tell, just plain killed
some time when we were down at our heels, or maybe down to our heels.
Sure you know about old Frankie’s
royal heritage too. I clued you in before when I wrote about my lost in the
struggle for power as I tried to overthrow the king when we entered North Quincy
High in 1960. By wit, chicanery, guile, bribes, threats, physical and mental,
and every other form of madness he clawed his way to power after I forgot the
first rule of trying to overthrow a king- you have to make sure he is dead. But
mainly it was his "style”, he mad-hatter “beat” style, wherefore he
attempted to learn, and to impress the girls (and maybe a few guys too), with
his arcane knowledge of every oddball fact that anyone would listen to for two
minutes. After my defeat we went back and forth about it, he said, reflecting
his peculiar twist on his Augustinian-formed Roman Catholicism, it was his
god-given right to be king of this particular earthy kingdom but foolish me I
tried to justify his reign based on that old power theory (and discredited as least
since the 17th century) of the divine right of kings. But enough of theory.
Here’s why, when the deal went down, Frankie was king, warts and all.
All this talk about Frankie royal
lineage kind of had me remembering a story, a Frankie pizza parlor story.
Remind me to tell you about it sometime, about how we used to bet on pizza
dough flying. What the heck I have a few minutes I think I will tell you now
because it will also be a prime example, maybe better than the one I was
originally thinking about, of Frankie’s treacheries that I mentioned before.
Now that I think about it again my own temperature is starting to rise. If I
see that bastard again I’m going to... Well, let me just tell the story and
maybe your sympathetic temperature will rise a bit too.
One summer night, yeah, it must have
been a summer night because this was the time of year when we had plenty of
time on our hands to get a little off-handedly off-hand. In any case it would
have had to be between our junior and senior years at old North Quincy High
because we were talking a lot in those days about what we were going to do, or
not do, after high school. And it would have had to have been on a Monday or
Tuesday summer night at that and we were deflated from a hard weekend of this
and that, mainly, Frankie trying to keep the lid on his relationship with his
ever lovin’ sweetie, Joanne. Although come to think of it that was a full-time
occupation and it could have been any of a hundred nights, summer nights or
not. I was also trying to keep a lid on my new sweetie, Lucinda, a sweetie who
seemed to be drifting away, or at least in and out on me, mostly out, and
mostly because of my legendary no dough status (that and no car, no sweet ride
down the boulevard, the beach boulevard so she could impress HER friends, yah
it was that kind of relationship). Anyway it's a summer night when we had time
on our hands, idle time, devil’s time according to mothers’ wit, if you want to
know the truth, because his lordship (although I never actually called him that),
Frankie I, out of the blue made me the following proposition. Bet: how high
will Tonio flip his pizza dough on his next pass through.
Now this Tonio, as you know already
if you have read the story about how Frankie became king of the pizza parlor, and
if you don’t you will hear more about him later, was nothing but an ace, numero
uno, primo pizza flinger. Here’s a little outline of the contours of his art,
although minus the tenderness, the care, the genetic dispositions, and who
knows, the secret song or incantation that Tonio brought to the process. I
don’t know much about the backroom work, the work of putting all the
ingredients together to make the dough, letting the dough sit and rise and then
cutting it up into pizza-size portions. I only really know the front of the
store part- the part where he takes that cut dough portion in front of him in
the preparation area and does his magic. That part started with a gentle
sprinkling of flour to take out some of the stickiness of the dough, then a rough
and tumble kneading of the dough to take any kinks out, and while taking the
kinks out the dough gets flattened, flattened enough to start taking average
citizen-recognizable shape as a pizza pie. Sometimes, especially if Frankie put
in an order, old Tonio would knead that dough to kingdom come. Now I am no
culinary expert, and I wasn’t then, no way, but part of the magic of a good
pizza is to knead that dough to kingdom come so if you see some geek doing a
perfunctory couple of wimpy knead chops then move on, unless you are desperate
or just ravenously hungry.
Beyond the extra knead though the
key to the pizza is the thinness of the crust and hence the pizza tosses. And
this is where Tonio was a Leonardo-like artist, no, that’s not right, this is
where he went into some world, some place we would never know. I can still see,
and if you happened to be from old North Quincy, you probably can still see it
too if you patronized the place or stood, waiting for that never-coming Eastern
Mass. bus, in front of the big, double-plate glass pizza parlor windows watching
in amazement while Tonio tossed that dough about a million times in the air.
Artistry, pure and simple.
So you can see now, if you didn’t
quite get it before that Frankie’s proposition was nothing but an old gag kind
of bet, a bet on where Tonio would throw, high or low. Hey, it’s just a
variation on a sports bet, like in football, make the first down or not, pass
or rush, and so on, except its pizza tosses, okay. Of course, unlike sports, at
least known sports, there are no standards in place so we have to set some
rules, naturally. Since it was Frankie’s proposition he got to give the rules a
go, and I could veto.
Frankie, though, and sometimes he
could do things simply, although that was not his natural inclination; his
natural inclination was to be arcane in all things, and not just with girls.
Simply Frankie said in his Solomonic manner that passed for wisdom, above or
below the sign in back of Tonio’s preparation area, the sign that told the
types of pizza sold, their sizes, their cost and what else was offered for
those who didn’t want pizza that night.
You know such signs, every pizza
palace has them, and other fast eat places too. You have to go to “uptown”
eateries for a tabled menu in front of your eyes, and only your eyes, but
here’s Tonio’s public offerings. On one side of the sign plain, ordinary, vanilla,
no frills pizza, cheap, maybe four or five dollars for a large, small something
less, although don’t hold me to the prices fifty years later for chrissakes, no
fixings. Just right for “family night,” our family night later, growing up
later, earlier in hot-water flats, public housing hot-water flats time, we had
just enough money for Spam, not Internet spam, spam meat although that may be
an oxymoron and had no father hard-worked cold cash for exotic things like
pizza, not a whole one anyway, in our household. And from what Frankie told me
his too.
Later , when we had a little more
money and could “splurge” for an occasional take-out, no home delivery in those
days, when Ma didn’t feel like cooking, or it was too hot, or something and to
avoid civil wars, the bloody brother against brother kind, plain, ordinary
vanilla pizza was like manna from heaven for mama, although nobody really wanted
it and you just felt bloated after eating your share (and maybe the crust from
someone who doesn’t like crust, or maybe you traded for it); or, plain, by the
slice, out of the oven (or more likely oven-re-heated after open air sitting on
some aluminum special pizza plate for who knows how long) the only way you
could get it after school with a tonic (also known as soda for you old days
non-New Englanders and progeny), usually a root beer, a Hires root beer
to wash away the in-school blahs, especially the in-school cafeteria blahs.
Or how about plump Italian sausage,
Tonio thickly-sliced, or spicy-side thinly-sliced pepperoni later when you had
a couple of bucks handy to buy your own, and to share with your fellows (those
fellows, hopefully, including girls, always hopefully, including girls) and
finally got out from under family plain and, on those lucky occasions, and they
were lucky like from heaven, when girl-dated you could show your stuff, your
cool, manly stuff, and divide, divide, if you can believe that, the pizza half
one, half the other fixings, glory be; onion or anchovies, oh no, the kiss of
death, no way if you had the least hope for a decent night and worst, the
nightmarish worst, when your date ordered her portion with either of these,
although maybe, just maybe once or twice, it saved you from having to do more
than a peck of a kiss when your date turned out not to be the dream vision you
had hoped for; hams, green peppers, mushrooms, hamburg, and other oddball
toppings I will not even discuss because such desecration of Tonio’s pizza,
except, maybe extra cheese, such Americanized desecration , should have been
declared illegal under some international law, no question; or, except, maybe
again, if you had plenty of dough, had a had a few drinks, for your gourmet
delight that one pig-pile hunger beyond hunger night when all the fixings went
onto the thing. Whoa. Surely you would not find on Tonio’s blessed sign this
modern thing, this Brussels sprouts, broccoli, alfalfa sprouts, wheat germ,
whole wheat, soy, sea salt, himalaya salt, canola oil, whole food, pseudo-pizza
not fit for manly (or womanly) consumption, no, not in those high cholesterol,
high-blood pressure, eat today for tomorrow you may die days.
On the other side of the sign,
although I will not rhapsodize about Tonio’s mastery of the submarine sandwich
art (also known as heroes and about seventy-six other names depending on where
you grew up, what neighborhood you grew up in, and who got there first, who,
non-Puritan, got there first that is) are the descriptions of the various
sandwich combinations (all come with lettuce, tomatoes, pickles, the outlawed
onions, various condiment spreads as desired along with a bag of potato chips
so I won’t go into all that); cold cuts, basically bologna and cheese, maybe a
little salami, no way, no way in hell am I putting dough up for what Ma
prepared and I had for lunch whenever I couldn’t put two nickels together to
get the school lunch, and the school lunch I already described as causing me to
run to Tonio’s for a sweet reason portion of pizza by the slice just to kill
the taste, no way is right; tuna fish, no way again for a different reason
though, a Roman Catholic Friday holy, holy tuna fish reason besides grandma,
high Roman Catholic saint Grandma, had that tuna fish salad with a splash of
mayo on oatmeal bread thing down to a science, yah, Grandma no way I would
betray you like that; roast beef, what are you kidding; meatballs (in that
grand pizza sauce); sausage, with or without green peppers, steak and cheese
and so on. The sign, in all its beatified Tonio misspelled glory.
“Okay,” I said, that sign part seemed
reasonable under the circumstances (that’s how Frankie put it, I’m just
repeating his rationalization), except that never having made such a bet before
I asked to witness a few Tonio flips first. “Deal,” said Frankie. Now my idea
here, and I hope you follow me on this because it is not every day that you get
to know how my mind works, or how it worked differently from star king Frankie,
but it is not every day that you hear about a proposition based on high or low
pizza tosses and there may be something of an art to it that I, or you, were
not aware of. See, I was thinking, as many times as I had watched old saintly
Tonio, just like everybody else, flip that dough to the heavens I never really
thought about where it was heading, except those rare occasions when one hit
the ceiling and stuck there. So maybe there was some kind of regular pattern to
the thing. Like I say, I had seen Tonio flip dough more than my fair share of
teenage life pizzas but, you know, never really noticed anything about it, kind
of like the weather. As it turned out there was apparently no rhyme or reason
to Tonio’s tosses just the quantity (that was the real secret to that good
pizza crust, not the height of the throw), so after a few minutes I said
"Bet." And bet is, high or low, my call, for a quarter a call (I had
visions of filling that old jukebox of Tonio’s with my “winnings” because a new
Dylan song had just come in that I was crazy to play about a zillion times, Mr.
Tambourine Man). We are off.
I admit that I did pretty well for
while that night and maybe was up a buck, and some change, at the end of the
night. Frankie paid up, as Frankie always paid up, and such pay up without a
squawk was a point of honor between us (and not just Frankie and me either,
every righteous guy was the same way, or else), cash left on the table. I was
feeling pretty good ‘cause I had just beaten the king of the hill at something,
and that something was his own game. I rested comfortable on my laurels. Rested
comfortably that is until a couple of nights later when we, as usual, were
sitting in the Frankie-reserved seats (reserved that is unless there were real
paying customers who wanted to eat their pizza in-house and then we, more or
less, were given the bum’s rush) when Frankie said “Bet.” And the minute he
said that I knew, I knew for certain, that we are once again betting on pizza
tosses because when it came right down to it I knew, and I knew for certain,
that Frankie’s defeat a few nights before did not sit well with him.
Now here is where things got tricky,
though. Tonio, good old good luck charm Tonio, was nowhere in sight. He didn’t
work every night and he was probably with his honey, and for an older dame she
was a honey, dark hair, good shape, great, dark laughing eyes, and a melting
smile. I could see, even then, where her charms beat out, even for ace pizza-flinger
Tonio, tossing foolish old pizza dough in the air for some kids with time on
their hands, no dough, teenage boys, Irish teenage boys to boot. However,
Sammy, North Quincy High Class of ’62 (maybe, at least that is when he was
supposed to graduate, according to Frankie, one of whose older brothers
graduated that year), and Tonio’s pizza protégé was on duty. Since we already
knew the ropes on this proposition I didn’t even bother to check and see if
Sammy’s style was different from Tonio’s. Heck, it was all random, right?
This night we flipped for first
call. Frankie won the coin toss. Not a good sign, maybe. I, however, like the
previous time, started out quickly with a good run and began to believe that,
like at Skeet ball (some call it Skee-ball but they are both the same–roll
balls up a targeted area to win Kewpie dolls, feathery things, or a goof key
chain for your sweetie) down at the amusement park, I had a knack for this form
of betting. Anyway I was ahead about a buck or so. All of a sudden my “luck”
went south. Without boring you with the epic pizza toss details I could not hit
one right for the rest of the night. The long and short of it was that I was
down about four dollars, cash on the table. Now Frankie’s cash on the table. No
question. At that moment I was feeling about three-feet tall and about eight-feet
under because nowadays cheap, no meaning four dollars, then was date money,
Lucinda, fading Lucinda, date money. This was probably fatal, although strictly
speaking the fate of that relationship was another story and I will not get
into the Lucinda details, because when I think about it now that was just a
passing thing, and you know about passing things- what about it.
What is part of the story though,
and the now fifty years later still temperature-rising part of the story, is
how Frankie, Frankie, king of the pizza parlor night, Frankie of a bunch of
kindnesses, and of a bunch of treacheries, here treachery, zonked me on this
betting scandal. What I didn’t know then was that I was set up, set up hard and
fast, with no remorse by one Francis Xavier Riley, to the tenements, the
cold-water flat tenements, born and his cohort Sammy. It seemed that Sammy owed
Frankie for something, something never fully disclosed by either party, and the
pay-off by Sammy to make him well was to “fix” the pizza tosses that night I
just told you about, the night of the golden fleecing. Every time I said
"high" Sammy, taking his coded signal from Frankie, went low and so
forth. Can you believe a “king”, even a king of a backwater pizza parlor, would
stoop so low?
Here is the really heinous part
though, and keep my previous reference to fading Lucinda in mind when you read
this. Frankie, sore-loser Frankie, not only didn’t like to lose but was also
low on dough (a constant problem for both of us, and which consumed far more
than enough of our time and energy than was necessary in a just,
Frankie-friendly world) for his big Saturday night drive-in movie-car borrowed
from his older brother, big-man-around-town date with one of his side sweeties
(Joanne, his regular sweetie was out of town with her parents on vacation).
That part, that unfaithful to Joanne part I didn’t care about because, once
again truth to tell, old ever lovin’ sweetie Joanne and I did not get along for
more reasons than you have to know. The part that burned me, and still burns
me, is that I was naturally the fall-guy for some frail (girl in pizza parlor
parlance time) caper he was off on.
Now I have mentioned that when we
totaled up the score the Frankie kindnesses were way ahead of the Frankie
treacheries, no question, which was why we were friends. Still, right this
minute, right this 2014 minute, I am ready to go up to his swanky downtown Boston
law office (where the men’s bathroom is larger than his whole youth time old
cold- water flat tenement) and demand that four dollars back, plus interest.
You know I am right on this one.
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