Surfers Like Lemmings
To The Sea-With The Gaslight Gang In Mind
From The Pen Of Bart Webber
Before dawn on a warm winter San
Diego Mission Beach morning in 2015 but it could have been any year since about
World War II, maybe before, a bunch of guys, and a few gals, dressed in
non-fashionista but endlessly long day searching for perfect wave mandatory
rubber suits, black from head to toe. Carrying, of course a fully-waxed surf
board which they will umbilically, if there is such a word to be used in the
surfing vocabulary to explain the real nature of the relationship of board to
human, tie to themselves and if not let us say they will tie the board to their
wrists with a cord, and tie that cord to themselves at water’s edge as they head
to the far edge of the beach, to where the sand gives way to stones and edges
to the sawdust peeling sand cliffs.
This is important because just the
morning before this one as Sam Lowell walked along the beach that same herd of
black-suited lemmings had been anchored around the pier about a mile before the
rocks. As Sam well knew, although since he had not been to coastal Southern
California for some years he had put the thought somewhere in the deep recesses
of his mind, the search for the perfect wave will drive every savvy surfer to
the place where they think that wave action is likely to happen and if they are
not savvy then they will follow the others betting that wiser heads will take
them to Nirvana.
All of this surfer action though this
day got Sam thinking about back in the days, back in the mid-1960s days, when
although not a surfer himself since he could barely swim and when young had
foolishly drifted out to sea on a log and almost drowned except for the quick
wits of the female life-guard which increased his love/fear of the sea, he had
snagged surfer girl Butterfly Swirl, Cathy Callahan, from up the road in
Carlsbad.
As befitted the times Butterfly had been
a young just out of high school surfer girl on the loose looking for what
everybody was talking about, talking about when they talked about the new
breeze coming through the land, the stuff that the late Peter Markin had clued
Sam and the other corner boys about in the hometown Carver night back in the early
1960s. That new breeze thing, read the dope, sex and acid-etched rock and roll part
of the breeze, Sam was all over, had his doctorate in that subject and had no
mixed feelings about what was going on unlike that mixed relationship of his with
the sea. In another time no way that Butterfly and Prince Valiant, the moniker
Sam was travelling under in that change-your-name-change-your-karma
moniker-filled time, would have crossed paths. Butterfly would probably have endlessly
continued to wait on shore for her perfect wave golden surfer boy (young women
were not usually surfers themselves but just looked bikini beautiful on the
West Coast beaches tanning themselves waiting for the sunlight to fail and then
give their pruned boys a little something to take the chill off, and you can
figure out what that was). Sam, after a serious bout of corner boy petty crime and
grifting with the likes of Frankie Riley, Peter Markin, Jack Dawson, Jimmy
Jenkins and a revolving cast of characters in high school would have gone off
to college and law school like his parents wanted him to do.
He had let those choices hang fire,
had caught hell from his working-stiff parents for going off the path they had
worked so hard to provide for him, had caught hell from his sometime
girlfriend, Maud Callahan, who had dreams of marriage after that cookie-cutter
college-law school-start-a-small-practice-in-Carver routine got them out from
under the old neighborhood burdens, when the siren calls came from out in
California (the call could have been from anyplace at a certain point in that
decade including Denver, Ann Arbor, up in the Oregons, Seattle, Santa Fe and so
on but Sam had his mind set on Frisco where he had heard the new world was
beginning, was in flower. Markin had also held a certain sway over him since he
was the first of the corner boys to head west and see what it was all about,
see if his, Markin’s, ideas about the new breeze held up. When Markin had
headed back East to bring others back out Sam had been the first guy who hitchhiked
out there with him.
Back to the Butterfly meet-up though.
In order to meet Sam or somebody who was hip to the new wave scene Butterfly had
left her golden-boy-looking-for-the-perfect-wave surfer boy and headed to San
Francisco where all the action that she was interested in was happening. They
had met in Golden Gate Park when he was on board Captain Crunch’s psychedelic
color-plastered converted yellow brick road school bus and she had come up to
him with a come hither look and asked if anybody had any dope. Sam flipped her
a joint and lit a match to get her going. Of course new wave or not, new wave
in 1967 anyway, no way that a fox like Butterfly was not going to be hit on by
old corner boy Markin who thought he had the old feudal “rights of the first
night” or something since he had been on the bus longer than Sam. In any case
he was lying in wait once he saw her. Butterfly picked Sam after a little verbal
struggle between the two old corner boys who were like high school kids about
the situation, worse since they had not bothered each other back in Carver
under the corner boy code, you don’t mess with another guy’s woman, maybe an
idea honored more in the breech than the observance but still part of the
genetic make-up of the Carver code.
Sam, as he thought back, thought too
about how he had not only snagged Butterfly from her surfer boy but from his old
friend Markin and chuckled at the thought since usually Markin with his
piss-ass two thousand facts would talk his way into something leaving Sam to
get mad about the lost. That Butterfly had in the end turned back into the
surfer girl and had gone back home to her golden boy after about a year also
was a sign of the times but Sam had long ago figured out that he had been lucky
for what time they had had together since he a New England boy, a bookish New
England boy would never have run into a surfer girl otherwise. He never had
subsequently and that kind of proved the point.
A few times while Sam and Butterfly Swirl were
together, usually when they were riding up and down the coast in Captain
Crunch’s magical mystery tour yellow brick road converted school bus, and
usually when stoned Sam (then using the moniker Prince of Love once he tried of
the Valiant moniker since everybody seemed to switch up without notice as a
sign that they were breaking out of their bourgeois old habits of thought and
living) would ask Butterfly to tell him about the attractions of the surfer
world that he had known really only by photographs and the songs of the Beach
Boys who had made a fine career out of paying homage to all the Southern
California post-World War II youth cultural signposts.
Cathy told Sam during those conversations that she was not sure how she had become a surfer girl, although she was hardly alone in that designation in
a place like Carlsbad since it was part of growing up in such a town. (or for
that matter La Jolla, Mission Beach, the beach cities heading north on to Mecca
Malibu and as Sam remembered back he had also seen the scene in such outposts
as Old Orchard Beach, Maine and off the coast of Cape Breton so go figure). In
her case as Sam realized since she was a long leggy blondish young woman with
ocean blue eyes she was a perfect specimen of the type then. What Sam could not
figure is why in those days somebody as attractive and smart as Cathy would sit
on shore all day if necessary waiting for her golden boy to have a shot at the
perfect wave or come out of the water prune-like (even with the protective
suits long periods in the water tended to prune a guy up). See unlike today
when you are likely to see more than a few surfer girls suited up to search for
their own perfect wave in those days surfer girls by definition waited on shore
for their menfolk. Waited maybe working on their tans then to be taken home in
the ubiquitous “woodie” in order to get ready to go out that night and catch
some act at a surfer bar and then to “curl a guy’s toes” before going home to
rest up for another day of the perfect wave. (That “curl your toes” Cathy’s expression for sex
and an expression of what she was capable of doing in bed as Sam found
out)
That is what Cathy was taking a break, a
momentary break from as it turned out, when she headed north after breaking up
with golden boy. Sam would thereafter always wonder on those occasions when he
saw the sight at any beach about the lure of the surf board where the
black-clad brethren held forth. And he was wondering about that the Mission
Beach morning when the worm turned.
But not only surfers inhabit the
beach world although they are much more likely to be there at the sun’s call,
or cloud’s call or wind’s call than landlubbers who will abandon our mother the
sea at the drop of a hat. Sam remembered the time Josh Breslin had told him that
when he went golfing out at Torrey Pines a few years back he struck up a
friendship with some of the regulars there and played with them for a few days
straight on very sunny warm days. Then one day they were not there although
they were serious regulars. He played in any case. The next day they reappeared
and he asked what had happen the day before. They told him it was too cold, too
cold at 60 degrees to play. Hell, Josh from snow country cold weather Maine
opened his jaw in disbelief. But the surfers all suited up and impervious to
the prune effect anyway would be there unlike the sullen crowds who are no
shows at the amusement park when the weather hits the slightest bit south.
Yes the worm turns, and turns in odd
ways since no way would anybody back in the 1960s be thinking about golf, hell,
Sam remembered being at one meeting in San Francisco where they were discussing
how to actively stop the goddam war in Vietnam and one guy, and no radical, just
to show how upside down the times were said that they should burn down the
country clubs. Jesus, Josh would flip now.
He thought about another story Josh
had told him, being at Mission Beach seemingly exploding some old kept
previously tight thoughts. One time, one hot sultry time. Josh and his
companion Laura walked from the Mission Park parking lot at West Bay Bridge to
Belmont Park, the amusement center which confronts you before you hit the beach,
a distance of maybe a mile which was easier to do that California wait in the
traffic that was going nowhere so Laura could take pictures of the amusement
park for some camera club completion. Needless to say old serious Josh, having
had his fill growing up about twenty miles north of the Orchard Beach amusement
park in Olde Saco normally would give such places a wide berth. Laura too. But
that day something of the old time kids taking the rides for the momentary
thrill of being bumped, dragged, twirled, jumbled, twisted, made seasick, and
just plain bedazzled got to them.
Josh, naturally, as an old arcade man
from his Old Orchard days attempted to
try his luck on the skee game that he had mastered very early when he was young
(unlike the pinball wizard games that he never quite caught and usually had to
depend on some generous corner boy up in his corner at the Colonial Diner on Main Street who had other things to do, go
meet some girl or some hijack a car or something to leave him his games won).
Josh was excited by the prospect of
“winning” some little trinket for Laura although having been down that road before
with Josh she just rolled his eyes at the prospect of getting a rabbit’s foot
or a feathery snake like in previous Josh efforts down at Paragon Park south of
Boston or Seaside Heights in New Jersey. Josh tried to reason with her, telling
her his classic skee story about the time when he was twelve or thirteen and
this girl, Mary Lou, was having a terrible time working the skee balls, getting
the right aim at the targets. So he stepped forward and showed her how. She
still could not get the drift and the ever smooth Josh decided that he would
win her a trinket. He had been on fire that day and he actually won her a
stuffed animal. For his bravado efforts Mary Lou and he walked to the secluded
end of the beach and she gave him a big kiss. That was what was at stake. Laura
just rolled her eyes again and said that was when he was twelve, get over it.
In any case Josh’s story had a weird
if modern ending. Apparently even on the lowly skee ball machines you have to
deal with the modern technology way of payment. You needed to swipe your debit
card to begin the game, to have the balls roll down the chute. No cash accepted
although on other wizard machines at the park cash was accepted. Josh had not
brought his wallet not thinking that he was to do combat that day at the
arcade. He asked, no, begged, cajoled, cried for mercy for Laura to let him use
her card. No dice, no way Jose. No way was she going to expose her credit card
to whatever craziness was going on in the hacker world, and emphatically was not
going to pay for her rabbit’s foot or feathery snake. Josh was “bitter” very
bitter about that as they moved on to the bumper cars so Laura could take some
photographs.
Strangely one of Josh’s fondest
memories, fondest brother memories was when they, all four of the them, would
bump the bejesus out of each other all trying to get the maximum from a direct
frontal or back hit on those saucy bumper cars. Such were the times, better
times in the Breslin family. Laura said that she never went on the rides, was
too afraid to even look at them usually as they went skyward. She did confess
to a weakness that she and her sister had had for the whirl-a-whirl which was
just a covered surrey which did dips as it went on its circular route. They
would laugh like crazy so it could not have been too scary.
As they left the park Laura spied the
inevitable carousel and needed to take photos of the little ones on the painted
ponies going up and down, gently as a new generation gets used to the momentary
thrills produced by the magic of the amusement park. The carousel a relic of a
gentler by-gone day before the super-electro dump up and down, speedo, nip and
dip rides carried the day. As they walked back to the car they both almost
simultaneously said that they had had fun in the park. Yes, they did.
Of course any trip to the sea,
waylaid by an amusement park diversion or not, requires due homage to our
homeland, the ocean, with the obligatory walk, barefooted in good weathers,
maybe flip-flops if the going is a little sandy or with appropriate boots in
winter time and so before they left the area to head back to the car they
walked Mission Beach. This had been the first time Laura had walked that
particular beach, although if one deals with Josh Breslin you will get very
jaded after the first twenty or so trips any time you are within ocean breeze
of the coast. (One time Josh told Laura when he was heading west hitching with
Markin, maybe on that first trip out together, he swore that he could smell
that seaweed, seashell, sea animal mucked ocean once they hit Travers City and
that town is seventy-five miles from the sea so you know he has a keen sense of
the ocean draw). That hot sultry day they walked, talked and observed which half
of the fun is when you are at the beach and especially when the weather is warm
like that day was warm for a winter’s day. Again a fine day.
Later that night at dinner Laura
mentioned to Josh a couple of things she
had observed at the beach while they were walking but had just thought of since
she had just seen a very tall, slender woman, close to six feet maybe more, walking
into the restaurant with a man slightly shorter than she was. Laura commented
on her very nice figure and clothes but also wondered as she had observed at
the beach as well with many long-legged women in very skimpy bikinis that there
were many more tall women around in the generation or two after theirs then
when they were growing up. Laura said at five feet, six inches she was not
short by her generation’s standards, in fact would be on the taller side, but
related to Josh that she had been teased in high school by some of the guys for
being so “tall for a girl” and that had hurt her since she was conscious of
what that meant in that less enlightened time. Laura also believed that she had
lost dates over the matter since guys then didn’t as a rule see anything
attractive about woman taller than they were. All the literature, and she
remembered especially a short story by Fitzgerald in which the one woman
mentioned had been tall and left out of the action, made sport of, which spoke
to a woman’s height as much as to say that such a beast was ungainly and to be
treated like somebody’s unwanted sister.
Josh spoke up at that remark and said
that he once was “forced” to take one of Brendan Pirot’s younger sisters to the
Spring Frolic at Olde Saco High as a favor to him since she was five feet,
eight inches and nobody wanted to take her. The funny part was that she was
something of a beauty, and later in college half the guys on campus were
looking for dates with her, some begging according to Brendan, but the worm was
turning on that tall woman thing a little by then. Josh noted as well that
aside from that “duty” performed his preference had been to not date girls as
tall as or taller than he is, and thus giving Laura anecdotal evidence of the pervasiveness
of the old time custom.
He also mentioned that he had broken
up with a girl, Josie Davidson, for just that reason after high school when he
was serious about her, a young woman almost six feet tall but he could not get
over the fact that people, guys, would think less of him because he was with a
taller woman. He was extremely self-conscious about that and while he never
mentioned her height to her it was one of the things when they were having
their final split-up that he was relieved to be leaving behind. Kids’ stuff but
any unacknowledged hurt by him aside it was an unacknowledged way tall women
were perceived then as Amazons and thus man-eaters.
Later that night as they headed home
in the car Josh mentioned that he remembered reading in some magazine that was
hip to such things that these newer generations unlike theirs and earlier
generations were corn-fed, got more meat and the like and probably had shot up
based on that added food supply to their systems as well as whatever DNA stuff
was going on. That magazine article also noted that in the 1960s the trend
toward very thin women, the Twiggy effect, had started in England after the war
when Britain was still reeling from food shortages and that thinness changed
from a negative to a plus. Apparently at least one guy did not mind being with
a thin as a rail woman.
Having exhausted the subject of tall
women Laura to switch the subject up a bit started talking about the other
generational thing that she had noticed, the incredible number of men and
women, mostly younger, who had tattoos. And not just like sailors and bikers in
the old days maybe some rose, some mother sentiment, or some sweetheart’s name,
but anything from almost full body tattoos giving some genesis story to a lower
back or ankle simple symbol. Josh said in the old days tattoos were reserved
for sailors far from home, maybe drunk to give themselves a boost and would go
to the convenience tattoo parlors that dotted the wharf areas where sailors
hung on when not on ship, bikers who saw it as their way of “showing the
colors” and occasionally somebody who had sailed into the China seas and as a
result was entitled to wear a tattoo to tout that fact.
During the counter-cultural movement
of the 1960s occasionally young women would have a butterfly put on their
shoulder or on their lower back or ankle. But the latest explosion spoke to a
generation trying to scream out its existence to an indifferent world, or some
such message. He wondered aloud whether they all knew so young that unless some
new therapy to erase the tattoos gets developed they have to live will all this
through the skins sags that will come with middle age. Probably not, just like
that did what they liked stuff and damn the rest of what the world thought when
they were young. Laura chuckled at that. Before bed both agreed once again that
it had been a great day
Josh got the last word in, surfers, misplaced
surfer girls, skee ball champions, tall women and shoulder length tattoos all
in a jumble but don’t’ blame the ocean for all that though. Laura laughed again.
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